Street Fashion

Street Fashion - "is the sense of style of creative people who take all sorts of information (from music, sports, fashion, and the like) and express their personal values through their outfits."
https://www.google.com/culturalinstitute/beta/exhibit/ogKCPmGdPtB7Iw

 Scott Schuman (1968 - ) 



http://www.thesartorialist.com/
Scott Schuman (2009) The Sartorialist Penguin Group London Uk






At Milan’s Spring 2007 Schuman was still a part of Men.Style.com. He photographed show-goers before a show and it went completely viral.


“we’ve loved street style, we’ve hated it, we’ve loved to hate it, and we’ve hated to love it.” 
- https://www.vogue.com/article/oral-history-modern-street-style

Those photographs felt very much planned. They did not show the captured moment in time. In contrast Bill Cunningham  (1929-2016) in 1978 photographed  Greta Garbo, not knowing that she was a famous actress. He brought the photo in December to the New York Times which was then published. It was absolutely adored by the public. It was also the first time to publish an authorized
https://www.vanityfair.com/style/2016/06/bill-cunningham-fashion-photographer-dead-at-87
https://www.nytimes.com/2016/06/26/fashion/bill-cunningham-on-his-life.html


Terry Jones  (1945- ) established i-D magazine in 1980. It was representative of youth couture and street style. It is known for showing new talents.
http://ideasondesign.net/speakers/speakers/terry-jones/



The magazine captured the fashion of the public, not only the celebrities and stars etc. It was a large difference to the high fashion and clothes produced by fashion designers.

Shoichi Aoki (1955- ) in 1997 established a magazine called FRUiT where he documented the Japanese street fashion; focusing on the Tokyo’s Harajuku style.


Shibuya, Harajuku, Shinjuku
August the 9th, 1980
Culture research institute "ACROSS"

“Teiten Kansoku (Fixed point observation)”

Since 1980, every first Saturday of a month they have interviewed and observed  young people and their style in different cities in Tokyo.

1970s 
"Young people  renounced the values of earlier generations and took a confrontational stance towards them, advocating new styles."
They mixed nyutora (new traditional) with hamatora (Yokohama traditional) and influenced by American students, they adapted American style of life. 

1980s
DC (“designer” and “character”) is the first trend to come oryginally from Japan and not being influenced by overseas cultures.
Later on young people get inspired by other cultures "such as bodikon (body conscious), Italian casual, and Hip hop style."

"The elegance fashion that started in Kobe in the latter half of the 1970s comes into vogue in the 1980s as a more casual style, particularly in the Yokohama area. This becomes a widespread trend after being featured as hamatora (Yokohama traditional) in JJ magazine."


 Joshi daisei (college girl) fashion "popular among male university students, featuring blazers and cardigans adorned with emblems, button-down shirts, and loafers. It becomes widespread as Preppy fashion."


Karasu-zoku (crow tribe) style - "women dress all in black from head to toe."
"Rei Kawakubo and Yohji Yamamoto debut their Paris collections, and publications by Magazine House, such as anan and POPEYE, become very popular."

1982 - fashion comes to be seen as a part of people’s daily lifestyle.

1983 - "the joshi daisei fashion becomes the main thing in vogue."
Fashion becomes influenced by music.





















Kawaii fashion - 1982, and otome (maiden/young lady) fashion - 1984 becomes popular.

1985 and Seiko Metsuda (1962- ) 

Seiko debuted in 1980 with a single  "Hadashi no Kisetsu". She quickly become a huge idol in Japanese culture who to this day is called the greatest idol of Japana and being refer to as a "goddess" by other idols.

She was seen as a pure and perfect character, whose style has been quick to follow by Japanese teenagers.
https://www.allmusic.com/artist/seiko-matsuda-mn0000367877/biography
 
From that point on, Japanese teens started to imitate hairstyles and fashion choices made by cultural icons such as singers or actors from all around the world.

Similar in the same time among men, bands such as The Checkers become the fashion inspiration.















1986 and Olive magazine



The magazine and the Parisienne fashion become the main fashion in Japan. Teenagers buy second hand clothing and start making their own outfits.

1986

The black with denim fashion of Parisienne street style comes into vogue. Teenagers become more mature, and casual, big-silhouette black MA-1 jackets become very popular.


Yohji Yamamoto (1943- ), Rei Kawakubo (1942- ) and Issey Misake (1938- )

Called the DC brand boom, inspired many Japanese women to wear  a sexy boasting one-length haircuts and body-conscious clothing
.
http://www.virtualjapan.com/wiki/Yohji_Yamamoto

From that point on, Japanese women's fashion becomes mature and smart. It represents intelligence and individuality. Therefore younger generation turns the formal fashion into more causal looks, which was mostly popular among private school students. It has been shown in VOGUE in 1988.

Fashion seems to start in one place, develop into something similar and then suddenly change into something completely different. In 1989, Aerobics is introduced into Japan, Olivia Newton-John’s Physical is a hit, and sporty fashions inundate the street. Teenagers start wearing causal clothing. People started to mix what they knew to create something new.



1992

  • the French causal fashion is spread among men. Styles with berets and leather cord neck wear from leading brands like agnès b., NICE CLAUP, KOOKAI, and SHIPS come into vogue.
  • The paragal (paradise girl) trend appears, adopting LA-style resort casual styles as an expression of femininity.

1994
  • People become influenced by club music, and the second hand clothing stores are more trendy than ever. Young people get hooked on accessories like newsboy hats, berets, round-toe odeko shoes, and scarves.
  • Tokyo street fashion attracts attention from abroad. There’s a sudden increase in the number of gayish/feminized kamao or femio men expressing their radical distinctiveness by making, or remaking, their own clothes. This garners attention as Tokyo street fashion.
  • Miniskirts become popular throughout the country, and ‘school girl’ fashion becomes popular in street fashion.

1996

  • Tomoe Shinohara, a celebrity sporting bright colors, details, and a high-strung personality, becomes a smash hit among teenagers. Her brand becomes an unconventional kawaii (cute) fashion genre.
  • Namie Amuro’s fashion style—miniskirts, thick-soled boots, and long cardigans becomes very popular.
1997 
  • loose socks are replaced by tight-fitting, dark blue socks.
  • kimono and Japanese motifs become popular and those who wear it are called Anelers.
  • the kogyaru generation grows up, and an increasing number of konsaba girls with an element of gyaru style can be seen.
  • Joshi kosei and Shinorer girls adopt a positive attitude towards accessories with unconventional colors and designs and peculiar motifs, calling them kawaii (cute). This merges with a modified kawaii fashion involving Hello Kitty, Doraemon, and Scream dolls, and large flowers.

1998

School fashion becomes more popular than ever and fashion becomes a part of everyday life.

1999

  • The ganguro gal style spreads from Shibuya to regional areas. Some kogyaru evolve into ganguro gals. A style incorporating wigs, false eyelashes, and tanned skin spreads out from Shibuya’s Center Gai shopping street to regional Japan.
  • The Urahara style spreads among girls, as well. A relaxed, casual style comes into vogue. The number of girls wearing a boyish fashion with sweat shirts, skinny denim jeans, and sneakers increases suddenly on Cat Street.
Between 1999 and 2000 Japan becomes influenced by celebrity styles from all around the world. In the same time fast fashion brands take over the fashion industry.

2000

Girls start to wear more boyish clothing - t-shirts and skinny jeans. The choose in accessories such as bags or shoes became more important.

In 2004 the Jinnan area of Shibuya becomes a famous place fr young people to hand out and buy clothing from variety of boutiques and second hand shops.

2005

Fashion becomes age - independent.

TUNE magazine becomes more popular, especially among men who start to care more about the fashion.


"in 2006 fashion goes global, and genre and generational boundaries disappear. The wave of globalization arrives in fashion, with boundaries between high fashion and street fashion, and the trend time lag between young people and adults almost disappearing."

 In the same time the street photography becomes very popular. People start to wear distinctive clothes and accessories and they start wearing more fashionable clothing not only for themselves, but also to be seen.

In 2007 the male version of gyaru - gyaru-o, becomes a thing manly in Shibuya Tokyo.

2008

Brands such as H&M or TOP SHOP arrive to Japan. The influence of western fashion comes back to Japan stronger than ever before.

2009 - 

Street photography turns into media community. People experiment with all sorts of clothing, delivering something new everyday. 
Fashion blends in with pop culture such as anime or games. People start to be inspired by many different things such as cosplay.
https://www.google.com/culturalinstitute/beta/exhibit/ogKCPmGdPtB7Iw



2005 - this year was a year for photographers such as Shuman or Ton to design their websites and post their work online for larger audience to be consumed. Five years later fashion bloggers started promoting clothing from variety of brands. Bloggers and Vlogers were given free clothing that then was revied on their channels and so sold to the target audience of both blogger and the brand. 

2011 -  street photography become very popular among everyone, especially on social media. Ordinary people, with fashion and beauty channels started to be invited to events such as New York Fashion Week, since their followers were more likely to buy those clothes. It was believed that since it is someone from internet, the clothes they own are more affordable than clothes worn by celebrities.

https://kenididdis.wordpress.com/2013/07/22/style-history-of-street-style-fashion/


Websites I have also looked at:

https://poeticgangster.com/blogs/news/the-evolution-of-street-style-fashion
https://www.vogue.com/article/oral-history-modern-street-style
http://www.harpersbazaar.com/fashion/street-style/g5000/iconic-street-style/?slide=9 
http://fashion-history.lovetoknow.com/clothing-types-styles/street-style

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