History of Fashion Photography
https://www.highsnobiety.com/2015/09/23/fashion-photography-history/
Edward Steichen (1879 - 1973)
https://www.icp.org/browse/archive/constituents/edward-steichen?all/all/all/all/0
His first exhibition in 1899 at the Philadelphia Salon. Steichen became a director of photography in 1947 at the Museum of Modern Art and he hold that role until 1962. He was responsible for many shows including The Family of Man in 1955, which is the most popular exhibition in the history of photography.
A lot of people believe that Steichen is the father of modern fashion photography. He focused on the detail of clothes, the set up of the studio and the lighting to give the clothes elegant look.
Condé Montrose Nast (1873-1942)
http://biography.yourdictionary.com/conde-nast
He was one of the most successful magazine publisher. One of those was VOGUE where he established new standard of fashion for American women.
In 1905 VOGUE's target audience was elite society. His goal was to make the magazine "the technical adviser-the consulting specialist-to the woman of fashion in the matter of her clothes and of her personal adornment."
Since 1909 VOGUE changed from a weekly into a semi-monthly publication. It started using colored pages, larger space for advertisement, fashion and society pages. "The magazine reported news of an elite echelon of society-what they did and what they cared about: vacations, marriages, charity events, tennis tournaments, country clubs, horseback riding, summer homes, boarding schools, and garden clubs."
Nast is also resposnible for changing the fashion photograhy. He told his photographers to take "more realistic, relaxed, and informal photos".
In 1913Vogue was put together with Vanity Fair and bcome one of the most popular and high fashion magazines in America.
Steichen was one of many to take photos for VOGUE. He linked distilling classic renaissance imagery with cubism and futurismand created a new and exciting style of photography, that was so revolutionary and fresh, that for many years other photographers followed his style even to this day.
Alexey Brodovitch (1898 - 1971)
http://www.iconofgraphics.com/alexey-brodovitch/
In 1934 Brodovitch started working for Harper’s Bazaar and this is the work, he is most famous for.
"I saw a fresh, new conception of layout technique that struck me like a revelation: pages that bled beautifully, cropped photographs, typography and design that were bold and arresting. Within ten minutes i had asked Brodovitch to have cocktails with me, and that evening i signed him to a provisional contract as art director."
- Ralph Steiner
Brodovitch was the first art director to integrate image and text. He put his photographs on the edges of pages, with flowing text, put into appropriate to the context shape. They are known for the use of white space, which by some was seen as creative and elegant, but also a waste of space.
Richard Avedon (1923–2004)
https://www.avedonfoundation.org/history/
"He photographed models and fashions on the streets, in nightclubs, at the circus, on the beach and at other uncommon locations, employing the endless resourcefulness and inventiveness that became a hallmark of his art."
“My photographs don’t go below the surface. I have great faith in surfaces. A good one is full of clues.”
- Richard Avedon
During 50s Avedon's style was imitated. Fashion photography turned into new direction - motion and spontaneity.
One of the photographers greatly inspired by Avedon was Henry Clarke (1918-1996).
https://www.flickr.com/photos/53035820@N02/albums/72157625242994504/page2/
He worked for VOGUE where he took portraits of people such as Anna Magnani, Coco Chanel, Sophia Loren or Maria Callas. He was also sent to places such as Syria, Iran, India or Mexico take more interesting fashion photographs.
David Bailey (1938 - )
https://www.britannica.com/biography/David-Bailey
He starter working for the British VOGUE in 1960. "His work reflects the 1960s British cultural trend of breaking down antiquated and rigid class barriers by injecting a working-class or “punk” look into both clothing and artistic products."
He experimented with Avedon's style giving them more youthful feel. Unlike him and other photographers, Irving Penn (1917 - 2009) decided to stock to the traditional studio photographs (http://www.hamiltonsgallery.com/artists/irving-penn/biography/). Working for VOGUE Penn focused on black and white photographs with the main focus on the character and the clothes.
70s and ’80s was the time or Avedon to go back to the studio and work with nudity and confidence in female sexuality.
In 80s fashion became something that middle class got more interested in as they could afford the clothes. This period of time was a start for the commercialism and brands such as Calvin Klein, Levi’s and Ralph Lauren.
When Aven photographed 15-year-old Brooke Shields wearing Calvin Klein jeans, it become the brand's advertisement campaign and shortly after it caught the target audience attention.
During the same time Penn collaborated with Japanese designer Issey Miyake (1938- ).
https://www.biography.com/people/issey-miyake-9410792
Inspired by teichen’s simplicity, Penn photographed Issey's futuristic designs and using the pattern of the fabrics, and body shapes of the models, he created something very new. It inspired other photographers to think outside the box and to push the boundaries.
90s - years of the women's rights movement and the link between beauty and fashion/beauty products did not forget about sexuality and nudity. It was when Calvin Klein become its best. Half-naked models wearing the famous brand's underwear brought a huge success and great sale to the company, which shortly after become globally recognized.
By then everyone knew that sex is what sells. In 20s that turned into the age of hyper sexuality. It meant to be controversial and provocative, because that was something that was going to be remembered.
Tom Ford (1961- ) and Terry Richardson (1965- ) took it on another level and put female body for sexual sale for men's products, which sadly worked (personal opinion).
Another example can be his collaboration with Mario Testino ( 1954- ) for Gucci, where he used
pubic hair of one of the models on the shot. They were shaved into the G silhouette which is the Gucci's logo.
Going back to 90s and the half-naked photo for Calvin Klein featuring Mark Wahlberg, brands knew that celebrities bring a great attention to the photograph therefore the product. The strong female roles are the fashion photography favorites. No surprise famous people, stars and celebrities are the fashion's photography faces.
Some models become actors or singers and some singers and actors become models and as long as a face is recognizable it will do great for a fashion photo shoot.
Nowadays fashion photography introduced to the mass in magazine form has dropped. In the era of Internet and social media there is not need to carry digital copies or prints of the photographs (which is a shame).
Producers and photographers adapted to this environment by producing content that can be shared, linked and viewed online.
"For many brands, look books are the new ad campaigns — cheaper to produce, easier to consume and better suited for distribution across digital mediums."
Also looked at;
Norman Parkinson (2004) Portraits in Fashion National Portrait Gallery Publications UK
Patric Remy (2014) The Art of Fashion Photography Prestel London New York ( the book did not have the actual reference page)
Dixie Dixon (2017) Fashion & Lifestyle Photography ILEX UK
Edward Steichen (1879 - 1973)
https://www.icp.org/browse/archive/constituents/edward-steichen?all/all/all/all/0
His first exhibition in 1899 at the Philadelphia Salon. Steichen became a director of photography in 1947 at the Museum of Modern Art and he hold that role until 1962. He was responsible for many shows including The Family of Man in 1955, which is the most popular exhibition in the history of photography.
A lot of people believe that Steichen is the father of modern fashion photography. He focused on the detail of clothes, the set up of the studio and the lighting to give the clothes elegant look.
Condé Montrose Nast (1873-1942)
http://biography.yourdictionary.com/conde-nast
He was one of the most successful magazine publisher. One of those was VOGUE where he established new standard of fashion for American women.
In 1905 VOGUE's target audience was elite society. His goal was to make the magazine "the technical adviser-the consulting specialist-to the woman of fashion in the matter of her clothes and of her personal adornment."
Since 1909 VOGUE changed from a weekly into a semi-monthly publication. It started using colored pages, larger space for advertisement, fashion and society pages. "The magazine reported news of an elite echelon of society-what they did and what they cared about: vacations, marriages, charity events, tennis tournaments, country clubs, horseback riding, summer homes, boarding schools, and garden clubs."
"Vogue is the elimination of waste circulation for the advertiser of quality goods. I determined to bait the editorial pages in such a way as to lift out of all the millions of Americans just the 100,000 cultivated people who can buy these quality goods."
- Condé Montrose Nast
- Condé Montrose Nast
Nast is also resposnible for changing the fashion photograhy. He told his photographers to take "more realistic, relaxed, and informal photos".
In 1913Vogue was put together with Vanity Fair and bcome one of the most popular and high fashion magazines in America.
Steichen was one of many to take photos for VOGUE. He linked distilling classic renaissance imagery with cubism and futurismand created a new and exciting style of photography, that was so revolutionary and fresh, that for many years other photographers followed his style even to this day.
Alexey Brodovitch (1898 - 1971)
http://www.iconofgraphics.com/alexey-brodovitch/
In 1934 Brodovitch started working for Harper’s Bazaar and this is the work, he is most famous for.
"I saw a fresh, new conception of layout technique that struck me like a revelation: pages that bled beautifully, cropped photographs, typography and design that were bold and arresting. Within ten minutes i had asked Brodovitch to have cocktails with me, and that evening i signed him to a provisional contract as art director."
- Ralph Steiner
Brodovitch was the first art director to integrate image and text. He put his photographs on the edges of pages, with flowing text, put into appropriate to the context shape. They are known for the use of white space, which by some was seen as creative and elegant, but also a waste of space.
Richard Avedon (1923–2004)
https://www.avedonfoundation.org/history/
He first worked for the Merchant Marines, however he moved on to shooting for Harper's Bazaar and Vogue. He photographed people like President Dwight D. Eisenhower, Marilyn Monroe, Bob Dylan and The Beatles. Richard Avedon changed a little bit the whole genre of fashion photography. He showed that it is not just about selling the product, but also about the mood and the composition of the photo that the costumer will desire. He believed that the relationship between him and the subject influences the outcome. He took deep and emotive photos, which printed out large were seen as a form of an expressive art. The close up was used not only to introduce the viewer to the details but to allow them to get into a personal space of the photographed subject.
“My photographs don’t go below the surface. I have great faith in surfaces. A good one is full of clues.”
- Richard Avedon
During 50s Avedon's style was imitated. Fashion photography turned into new direction - motion and spontaneity.
One of the photographers greatly inspired by Avedon was Henry Clarke (1918-1996).
https://www.flickr.com/photos/53035820@N02/albums/72157625242994504/page2/
He worked for VOGUE where he took portraits of people such as Anna Magnani, Coco Chanel, Sophia Loren or Maria Callas. He was also sent to places such as Syria, Iran, India or Mexico take more interesting fashion photographs.
David Bailey (1938 - )
https://www.britannica.com/biography/David-Bailey
He starter working for the British VOGUE in 1960. "His work reflects the 1960s British cultural trend of breaking down antiquated and rigid class barriers by injecting a working-class or “punk” look into both clothing and artistic products."
He experimented with Avedon's style giving them more youthful feel. Unlike him and other photographers, Irving Penn (1917 - 2009) decided to stock to the traditional studio photographs (http://www.hamiltonsgallery.com/artists/irving-penn/biography/). Working for VOGUE Penn focused on black and white photographs with the main focus on the character and the clothes.
70s and ’80s was the time or Avedon to go back to the studio and work with nudity and confidence in female sexuality.
In 80s fashion became something that middle class got more interested in as they could afford the clothes. This period of time was a start for the commercialism and brands such as Calvin Klein, Levi’s and Ralph Lauren.
When Aven photographed 15-year-old Brooke Shields wearing Calvin Klein jeans, it become the brand's advertisement campaign and shortly after it caught the target audience attention.
During the same time Penn collaborated with Japanese designer Issey Miyake (1938- ).
https://www.biography.com/people/issey-miyake-9410792
Inspired by teichen’s simplicity, Penn photographed Issey's futuristic designs and using the pattern of the fabrics, and body shapes of the models, he created something very new. It inspired other photographers to think outside the box and to push the boundaries.
90s - years of the women's rights movement and the link between beauty and fashion/beauty products did not forget about sexuality and nudity. It was when Calvin Klein become its best. Half-naked models wearing the famous brand's underwear brought a huge success and great sale to the company, which shortly after become globally recognized.
By then everyone knew that sex is what sells. In 20s that turned into the age of hyper sexuality. It meant to be controversial and provocative, because that was something that was going to be remembered.
Tom Ford (1961- ) and Terry Richardson (1965- ) took it on another level and put female body for sexual sale for men's products, which sadly worked (personal opinion).
Another example can be his collaboration with Mario Testino ( 1954- ) for Gucci, where he used
pubic hair of one of the models on the shot. They were shaved into the G silhouette which is the Gucci's logo.
Some models become actors or singers and some singers and actors become models and as long as a face is recognizable it will do great for a fashion photo shoot.
Nowadays fashion photography introduced to the mass in magazine form has dropped. In the era of Internet and social media there is not need to carry digital copies or prints of the photographs (which is a shame).
Producers and photographers adapted to this environment by producing content that can be shared, linked and viewed online.
"For many brands, look books are the new ad campaigns — cheaper to produce, easier to consume and better suited for distribution across digital mediums."
Also looked at;
Norman Parkinson (2004) Portraits in Fashion National Portrait Gallery Publications UK
Patric Remy (2014) The Art of Fashion Photography Prestel London New York ( the book did not have the actual reference page)
Dixie Dixon (2017) Fashion & Lifestyle Photography ILEX UK
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